Vogue Runway’s Tokyo correspondent Ashley Ogawa Clarke had a busy week covering the city’s fall 2025 shows. Coming on the heels of Paris, the Tokyo collections don’t always get the attention they deserve, so I asked Ashley to name his top five. “Overall,” he says, it was a “solid season with a mix of mature and fresh names with great potential—worth following if you’re interested in who the new guard of Japanese designers could be.” These are the top-five shows you shouldn’t miss.
1. Pillings
Fresh off his place in this year’s LVMH semi-final, Pillings designer Ryota Murakami was the star of Tokyo this season. His offbeat knits are unlike anything else out there, but the best thing about his shows is that they hit you in the heart.
2. Tamme
Before he started his own label, Tamme’s Tatsuya Tamada used to work as a pattern cutter at Sacai. His debut show at Tokyo Fashion Week featured some excellent military-inspired tailoring, and immediately marked him out as one of Japan’s designers to watch.
3. Hyke
This was the first time Hyke had put on a runway in five years, and it was good to have them back. Bonus points for the cool-looking sweater-sleeves.
4. Keisuke Yoshida
Keisuke Yoshida’s wins for the most evocative show location this season: a retro arcade building complete with claw machines that he spent a lot of time in as a kid.
5. Chika Kisada
The punchiest show of the week, Chika Kisada’s collection had everything: rave music, ballet skirts, mountain parkas, and even a bit of Barbie. |
