With the exception of the laws of physics, pretty much every other rule ever made—including the rules around traditional menswear—is somebody’s opinion. This makes such do’s and don’ts both subjective and, as history continues to prove, more than likely to sound ridiculous in a decade or two. That said, there are still rules to know and missteps to avoid, and understanding them (even if only to break them) can be the key to looking absolutely smoldering in a suit.
As ever, knowing your way around conventions like trouser length (they should touch the tops of your shoes), sock choice (crews in solid, muted colors) and whether or not to wear a tie (mostly up to you!) will help you avoid some of the most common faux-pas. For a more comprehensive rundown on the state of the suit in 2024, we tapped our roster of menswear experts for their best advice, from the philosophical to the highly specific. —Jeremy Freed
Fit is (almost) everything
A beautiful suit that doesn’t fit properly is going to look terrible on you. On the other hand, if you have a cheap suit and a good tailor who can fit you well, it’s going to look great. —Bruce Boyer, elder statesman of American menswear
Fit equals comfort
A little room in your suit is never a bad thing, it will be more comfortable to wear. You can't look good if you're not comfortable. —Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury
Beware the shrunken suit
“If you can see the wallet, keys, cell phone or change bulging in your pockets, your pants are likely too tight. Likewise, your jacket should cover your seat. Shorter jackets don’t make you look more casual – they make you look like you have a jacket that doesn’t fit.” —Matthew Woodruff, creative director at J.Mueser
Start with a classic
“For me, that means a single-breasted, two-button or three-roll-two jacket, probably with side vents, and a not-too-slim-but-not-too-full pair of pants. With the help of a trusted tailor, that’s going to get you 90 per cent of the way there.” —Sid Mashburn, founder of Sid Mashburn
Your first suit should also be your most versatile
“A fabric like an Italian four-season wool will offer comfort and flexibility across different climates and occasions. Once your foundation is set, there is always time to expand into patterns and different fabrics like heavy tweeds, airy linens or gabardine.” —Todd Snyder, founder of Todd Snyder
A suit can be whatever you want it to be
“Not all suits are necessarily formal. The only thing that makes a suit a suit is that the trousers and the jacket are in the same fabric. You can absolutely wear a suit casually if you pay attention to the fabric, details and overall design.” —MC
Reconsider the double-breasted suit
“Wearing a double-breasted suit fully buttoned up with a spread collar and tie will always be sharp, but you can also think of it the same way you’d think of wearing a sport coat or a cardigan – worn open with a pair of jeans and a tee. If you want a look that meets somewhere in the middle, swap out the shirt and tie for a turtleneck or polo-neck sweater.” —TS
Heather gray > flat gray
“A medium-to-dark gray or a medium-to-dark blue is never going to steer you wrong. And the gray needs to have a little heather to it. Flat gray is not so good.” —SM
The trouser crease is there for a reason.
“That crisp vertical line on the lower half of your body helps make your silhouette tall and lean.” —MC
To read the full list of tailoring rules, click here.
