From: Racked - Tuesday Jul 31, 2018 03:00 pm
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The ‘Mamma Mia!’ Costume Designer Explains How to Dress Like Young Donna
Mamma Mia!

I’m not a film critic, but I’m here to tell you without a speck of irony that Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again is a perfect movie. Both a sequel and a prequel to Mamma Mia!, the 2008 film adaptation of the hit Broadway show, it’s a romp through beautiful, sparklingly sunny Greece filled with singing, dancing, and as many Abba songs as can be shoehorned into the plot, which has a lot of holes if you look closely. You shouldn’t.

In the original, Sophie (Amanda Seyfried) invites three of her mother’s former boyfriends to her wedding in an effort to figure out which one of them is her father, all without telling her mom, Donna (Meryl Streep). Comedy and dance numbers ensue. This time around, as Sophie is following her mother’s dream of opening a hotel, we cut back to 1979, when an adventurous young Donna (Lily James) graduates from Oxford and meets those three guys on her way to the Greek island where she eventually raises Sophie. It’s frothy and fun and generally out of control, but also a powerful narrative about friendship and self-reliance.

One side effect of seeing Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again is becoming obsessed with capturing young Donna’s joie de vivre by replicating her beachy curls and ’70s wardrobe. Young Donna wears a rotating combination of denim overalls, floppy hats, diaphanous tunics, high-waisted jorts, killer bell-bottoms, and colorful, flowing maxi skirts.

I called up Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again costume designer Michele Clapton — also known for her work on Game of Thrones — to discuss dressing young Donna and how someone could, if they wanted to, get the look.

To get started, how did you approach costuming young Donna in the ’70s portion of the movie?

The ’70s is the reason I did the movie. I love the ’70s so much. For Lily, I was thinking of Stevie Nicks. I loved Jane Birkin. Nigella Lawson in the ’70s was so cool when she was at Oxford. I found these old pictures of her — she was a real inspiration for the Oxbridge scenes. And I looked at lots of photos of people on holiday in Greece to see how they dressed. Because it’s a musical, I tried to zap up the color and make it wearable.

For [Donna and her friends’] performance outfits, I wanted it to look really homemade, like they made them themselves. They put the frills on their jeans; it was a homemade attempt at being Abba.

Where did you source young Donna’s outfits?

Her “Waterloo” dress I found in LA. I can’t remember what shop it was, but the moment I saw it, I loved it so much. That was a vintage piece. Then we had to replicate it, which drove us insane. We had to digitally print it. That was incredibly difficult because it was so tonal and ’70s colors have so many colors within them. The print was never quite as good.

You need to have multiple copies of each look for filming?

Yes, in case anything went wrong. Sometimes you have one for a stand-in, or if they’re rehearsing in it. Lily always wore the original [in the film], but in rehearsal, she wore the double.

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Tech
Of Course There’s a Vest Vending Machine at the San Francisco Airport
Vests

Is there anything more comforting and humiliating than being extremely, correctly typecast by a brand? Ask the travelers coming and going via San Francisco International Airport, which Business Insider reports has been selling $10,000 a month in puffer vests from a Uniqlo vending machine.

When it first rose to the surface on Twitter, the vending machine seemed like a joke: Vests (typically Patagonia fleece but apparently also down) are well known as the uniform of Silicon Valley’s venture capital cohort. To buy one openly in the San Francisco airport (at $50 a pop), either as a memento of one’s time in the most expensive city in the United States or as camouflage upon one’s arrival to it, requires next-level shamelessness. Uniqlo, which historically has struggled to break into the US market, was right to cater to stereotypes, whether it did so intentionally or not.

This whole thing also serves as a reminder of how weird the airport shopping experience is. In the same way that being 36,000 feet in the air inexplicably makes you weep during mediocre romantic comedies, you may find yourself making strange purchasing decisions between security and takeoff. Captive to the terminal’s selection of packaged sandwiches and paperbacks, hypnotized into thinking the inflated prices are perfectly reasonable, bored to bits, you overpay for things you forgot to pack (toothpaste), for things to help you cope (margaritas), and for things you hope will improve your mind even as you lose your wits waiting for the next delay announcement (Psychology Today).

Who can say why a person would buy a down vest from an airport vending machine? Perhaps they’ve always been intrigued and now is as good a time as ever. Maybe they forgot to pack enough layers. Or it could be that this is an airport, and nobody but duty-free luxury cosmetics shoppers can really justify the decisions they make in its sterile confines. We are putty in its hands.

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