Milan Fashion Week started with the opening of the retrospective “Italiana, Italy Through the Lens of Fashion 1971-2001,” on the formative years of the country’s ready-to-wear industry and the great names that built it. But it seems right to say that Italian fashion’s glory days are not all behind us. Women and men of taste have launched lines with niche appeal, and Milan’s big names had a good week, too, demonstrating not just the city’s famous commercial savvy but also a commitment to ideas.
It started with Moncler, which slipped in front of Gucci to assume Milan’s opening-night spot. Remo Ruffini’s top-to-bottom rethink of the outerwear label has produced a forward-looking business concept, with monthly rollouts by well-chosen designers, and, more important, highly desirable products both conceptual and commercial to get people shopping.
Elsewhere, Alessandro Michele’s fake baby dragons and severed heads at Gucci were the most talked-about—and memed-about—sightings of the week. Miuccia Prada shared her deep thoughts about the #MeToo movement; Fendi had some of the boldest tailoring around; Francesco Risso showed playful, inventive dresses at Marni; Dolce & Gabbana celebrated religious devotion and our culture’s unholy obsession with accessories and technology; and Donatella Versace gave a very savvy nod, via the models’ silk headscarves, to her global customer base, a clientele of many creeds and religions. Click here to read the full story on Vogue Runway.
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