If you’ve been to a Y/Project show in the last 10 years, or seen a Diesel runway in the last three, you know that Glenn Martens is a major talent—a designer with conviction who knows how to shape a definitive look. That he’s done so at two labels already is rare enough, but yesterday he showed us he’s got the juice for a third. At his stunner of a debut at Maison Margiela, Martens demonstrated a strong command of Martin Margiela’s codes—“incognito” models bricolage, even the neon green of the closing dress looked like a nod in the house founders’s direction (see fall 2007). But the collection felt neither stuck in the past, nor familiar the way so much of fashion in 2025 seems to. It was the jolt this rather flat couture season needed, and now, the designers still preparing their debuts (there’s at least half-a-dozen of them) have a fresh, new standard to live up to. Read Sarah Mower’s review here. |
