Due in stores and online starting next February, Phoebe Philo’s “Collection D” will align with the on-sale date of the spring 2026 collections we’ll see in September and October, when nearly a dozen newly appointed creative directors unveil womenswear visions for their respective brands. With so many designers debuting, and so much riding on these relaunches in a slackening luxury market, spring ’26 is bound to be an inflection point, one of those before and and after dividing lines that come around a couple of times a decade. That’s the hope, at least.
Philo herself is responsible for one of those famous fashion dividing lines; circa 2010 her first show for Celine turned a generation of women onto grown-up minimalism. Today, she’s nearly two years into her own launch, a rarity in an industry committed to keeping old names alive at the expense of cultivating new ones, and she remains committed to doing things differently. Her former deputies Matthieu Blazy and Michael Rider will be on the Paris Fashion Week schedule at Chanel and Celine, respectively, but she’s staying off the runway for now.
In fact, Philo rejects the idea of seasonal collections entirely, preferring an approach that builds upon itself. Still, with this late-July reveal, she’s out in front on the subject of what we’ll be wearing early next year and she’s advocating for some fun. Read my report. |
