  IN PARTNERSHIP WITH GOPROVIDENCE  Kat Craddock By Kat Craddock I grew up in Pawtucket, Rhode Island—a historic mill city north of Providence—and while I haven’t lived there in 24 years, I make it back often. My home state is essentially one big port town, shaped by waves of immigration from Europe, Canada, West Africa, the Caribbean, and beyond. Rhode Island’s food, in particular, has been influenced by these communities, resulting in exceptional culinary diversity. Social clubs and church festivals held by Portuguese, Greek, Cape Verdean, Italian, Lao, French Canadian, and Polish people welcome all, while seafood shacks and neighborhood restaurants sling chowder, clam cakes, and lobster rolls year round. When it comes to the SAVEUR maxim to “Eat the World,” Little ol’ Rhody holds its own. (And I’ll fight anyone who thinks they can find a better pizza in New York or Chicago.)  Kat Craddock So when our friends at GoProvidence invited SAVEUR to be a part of a new food festival—the Providence Culinary Collective—I leapt at the opportunity to celebrate my home state. As anyone who’s been paying attention will tell you, the restaurant scene in Rhode Island’s capital is on the up-and-up. That’s partly thanks to institutions like Al Forno Restaurant, Gracie’s, Seven Stars Bakery, Oberlin, and Persimmon, which laid the groundwork for the city’s buzzy contemporary hot spots. But don’t take my (admittedly biased) word for it: In recent years, there’s been an upswing in James Beard Award nominations for Rhode Island restaurants.  Kat Craddock The tables at chic Downtown and East Side spots—Gift Horse, Frank & Laurie’s, Little Sister, and Dolores, to name a few—are always in high demand, while more casual haunts like There, There; Dune Brothers; and Pizza Marvin are a boon for families, college kids, and other on-the-move diners. And I haven’t even gotten to the hip bakeries, over-the-top brunch menus, and innovative ice cream shops. These days, it’s hard not to eat well in Providence.  Kat Craddock But Rhode Island’s food scene has always been great. My early culinary education entailed bouncing between white tablecloth Italian restaurants, family-style chicken dinner halls, Syrian kebab shops, and Greek-owned “hot weiner” joints. Whether I was celebrating a special occasion with my folks or kicking around town with a few bucks in my pocket, there was always something to fill my rumbling stomach. The cultures that shaped Rhode Island are only half the story: The state’s cuisine also reflects its geography and natural bounty. The tiny state boasts a staggering 400 miles of shoreline, and you’re never more than a 30-minute drive from the Atlantic Ocean or Narragansett Bay. Seafood isn’t just a protein here—it’s a way of life. Pair that abundance of extraordinary local ingredients with the culinary ingenuity coming out of Johnson & Wales University, and you’ve got a recipe for a food scene that punches far above its weight. Stay Here Next Warren Jagger (Courtesy The Beatrice Hotel) When I visit Rhode Island, I usually hole up in my childhood bedroom, so it was a special treat when, last summer, I got to stay at The Beatrice in Downtown Providence. Built into the 1845 Exchange Bank Building on Westminster Street, the sleek marble and dark wood rooms are a soothing escape from the bustle of the surrounding city, while the ground floor restaurant, Bellini, is worth a visit both for its ambiance and its menu—a mix of rustic yet elegant Venetian classics, inventive cocktails, and modern takes on Italian American staples—not to mention one of my favorite hotel bars. Run by the legendary Cipriani family (it’s said that Giuseppe Cipriani invented the bar’s eponymous cocktail in the 1940s at Harry’s Bar in Venice), The Beatrice is the ideal cosmopolitan outpost for out-of-towners keen to visit New England’s most exciting food city. Listen to ThisLast week, our books editor Jessica Carbone and I were a part of Johnson & Wales University’s FIT Symposium, and while on campus, GoProvidence’s Alana O’Hare and Nicholas Millard welcomed me on to their podcast, PVD POV, produced in partnership with a crackerjack team of hospitality management students. We chatted about printing SAVEUR’s latest issue in Rhode Island, a controversial (no-cheese!) pizza, and the upcoming Providence Culinary Collective. Have a listen here! Read This Next Photo Illustration: Russ Smith • Photo: Courtesy GoProvidence Cook This NextWatch This Next Pop QuizWhich ingredient below is traditionally served atop Rhode Island’s signature hot dog? |
From: Eat Here Next from SAVEUR - Friday Feb 28, 2025 10:12 pm
