“The designers have proven that the British give their best when their backs are against the wall,” reads a 1993 quote by journalist Kathryn Samuel on the wall at the London Fashion Week retrospective. The exhibition charts the difficult times that have impacted London’s designer landscape over the past four decades — from the aftermath of the ’80s recession, to 9/11 and the 2008 financial crash. In her speech at the private viewing, Vogue chief critic and British Fashion Council (BFC) ambassador for emerging talent Sarah Mower — who co-curated the retrospective alongside renowned photographer and creative director Robin Derrick — says it’s in these moments of adversity that innovation is born. For the Spring/Summer 2025 season, against a backdrop of high costs and wholesale disruption, London’s designers once again proved this to be true. “The energy at LFW this season has been electric,” says Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC. “There is an unwavering optimism across the industry, even in the face of current economic challenges.” Designers and show-goers also noted a vibrant energy, as creativity and multiculturalism continue to be at the forefront of what the city has to offer. Check out all of Vogue Business’s coverage from the London Fashion Week SS25 season below.
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